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Old 06-28-2012, 09:48 PM   #21
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2011 28' International
Chatham , Ontario
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From the picture supplied, I see that you're using a Reese Dual-Cam Weight Distributing and sway control set up. I'm slightly surprised that you should need to remove the WD bars when backing up, even with the tightest of turns. I don't know enough about the Dual-Cam to know if that's a common thing for users but it has to have been designed with tough backing up challenges in mind.

Once you've removed those WD bars, the entire tongue weight of the trailer is resting solely on the hitch and you've lost the advantage of some of the weight being transferred to the front axle. The rear end of the car would normally sag under the weight but your Infiniti has self levelling suspension so is working hard to counter the sagging effect. But itt seems that for some reason which can't be readily identified, the self-levelling system didn't want to work and you ended up with the QX's coil spings struggling under the load.

If it were me in this situation I'd consult the other Reese Dual-Cam users on the Forum and see if taking the WD bars off for tight backing up turns is something routinely done. I'd hope that it isn't the case and that you're advised to keep those WD bars in place until the backing up turns are complete; that way the QX isn't abnormally loaded and the coil springs and air bags aren't given too much of a beating.

I have a simpler WD system on my TV and trailer which has separate friction anti-sway bars fitted. I do loosen, or even remove, these friction bars when backing up because they can limit a turn, but I have to leave the WD bars in place or my TVs rear end would be dragging on the ground!
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Old 06-29-2012, 04:25 AM   #22
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Rdiddly,

Noticed one thing in your photo.....I would route your 7-way cord up and over the tongue, check often that it is locked in the plug.

Bob
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:28 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
X2....

On Sep 7, 2011, at 12:34 PM, INFO @ SuspensionConnection wrote:

The Firestone air bags will increase your weight carrying capacity by
5000 pounds. I definitely recommend this system for your Burb:
Firestone #2253 - Chevy Suburban Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags 2000-2009

Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Cross [mailtoxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2011 10:59 AM
To: info@suspensionconnection.com
Subject: Airbag Chev Suburban

I am wondering how much more payload I will gain by adding rear bags to
my 06 3/4 Burb. Not sure of what the "level load capacity" of the Burb
is now.


Bob
That is scary. I have air bags in my old 75 dodge 3/4 ton. They are manual and I fill them up when I haul 4000 lbs of rock or dirt around. Not because I can take more weight but to keep the front wheels on the ground

I also put them in my Sequoia because rides better with about 8-10 psi in them..
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Old 06-29-2012, 09:56 AM   #24
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I don't know why whenever I click on Quick Reply to this post, my post always winds up at the bottom. Makes it hard to have any continuity. Thanks for the tip on the 7-way cord (never knew it was called that, I'll try to remember). I talked with the Airstream guys again when I took the trailer in and they reiterated that it's essential to remove the weight distribution bars when making tight turns or backing up. I have never removed them when backing up, but I have certainly suffered the consequences of tight turns in that the saddles have been bent beyond repair. It's clear that there are several factors that influence their performance, i.e., how many chain links are hanging free, where the saddles are situated on the tongue, etc. I have noticed that the trailer sits much lower when they're not installed. The Airstream dealer did recommend that I carry a 2x4 block of wood with me to use in place of the foot should the problem ever recur. I thought that sounded like a good idea. Meantime, the rear-leveling does seem to be working again. I'll let y'all know should it ever happen again. Thanks to everyone for your helpful responses!
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:17 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rdiddly View Post
we have to remove the stabilizer bars before we get home because some of the turns are so sharp that they bend the saddle to which the stabilizer bars attach. Usually, this is not a problem. I raise the trailer, remove the bars, lower the trailer, and off I go.
Now that I see your pictures I think it is worth revisiting why you are having to put this extreme load on the rear suspension just to back in.

What you have looks like a Reese DualCam set up. The WD bars shift some of the tongue weight to the front of the SUV, and the hook&cam assembly provides you the anti-sway action.

I have the same set up and have never had to remove them for backing up or any other maneuver. They creak and groan sometimes but I have backed sharply into places before, occasionally steep enough to drag the draw bar on the ground.

So....what do you mean by "they bend the saddle to which the stabilizer bars attach"? Can you attach a picture of the part bending, or at least the part that does bend when backing into your drive.?

Also what capacity WD bars are you using (800lb, 1200lb etc)? There should be a label on them.
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Old 07-08-2012, 11:46 PM   #26
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Not to be a jerk - ever think of a ProPride or Hensley?
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